Tereza Otáhalíková

Jewelry Designer

The woman behind this season’s jewelry collection, Tereza Otáhalíková, shares her creative vision for these subaquatic-inspired pieces and elaborates on their production process.

Which of the new products is your favorite?
If I had to choose only one, it would probably be the new pearlescent shades of the Nacre Pearls. I traditionally prefer naturally occurring colors, but the new blue-green and purple shades perfectly complement the metals and are extremely eye-catching.

How would you describe the mood of this collection?
One trend we expect to see during the AW 2018/19 season is a combination of dark o/pulence and mysterious fantasy, which we have interpreted an underwater demi-goddess, or Nereid.

Which piece is your personal favorite?
I like them all to the extent that I would never design something I wouldn’t want to wear. It’s the ultimate test: you can’t expect someone else to want to wear something that you create if you yourself wouldn’t want to wear it. But of course I have my favorites. For example, the coin necklaces with Aventurine, which I plan at some point to add to my personal collection!

Where do you find your inspiration?
It depends. Sometimes it comes from an experience or memory or sometimes I see something stylistically intriguing online. For this collection, I was mostly inspired by working with the materials themselves: raw unprocessed metal, in contrast to a perfectly cut and shaped stone, which creates a certain counterintuitive harmony. Minimalism versus opulence.

What would you pair with these jewelry pieces?
It’s up to the personality of the wearer. I don’t like to say that a specific piece or stone is only suitable for a certain occasion. I like playfulness and improvisation. Nowadays, labeling pearls, for example, as stones you should only wear on special or fancy occasions is nonsense – I’ve seen them incorporated into sportswear. Designers and stylists can always find a way to undermine these outdated ideas.

What materials were used in this collection and how were the stones applied?
The jewelry is mostly made of metal with a golden outer layer, but some of the products were made especially for textile applications such as our new Crystal Pure, which is why this collection includes jewelry made from transparent organza.

This collection is built on the contrast of raw, solid metal in which a single stone is laid so that nothing takes away from its simplistic beauty. These stones were not applied in classical settings, but are placed in such a way that does not interfere with the cut and gives a pure, minimalist impression. I also worked quite a lot with ferido, which allowed me to create organic structures using different sizes and colors.

Your primary experience comes from designing clothes. Do you identify more with being a fashion designer or jewelry designer?
What’s great about the word “designer,” is the broad scope of segments it can encompass. Because I studied fashion design, I tend to gravitate more toward textile production, and have always devoted time to fashion illustration and drawing. At the moment, however, I am definitely focusing more on jewelry and accessories.

Do you remember your first jewelry design?
My very first jewelry design was a tiny silver ring with a zirconia stone that I gave to my mom. What's the biggest challenge for beginning jewelry designers? Definitely the different technology it entails. It is very important to know all the principles and processes behind the creation of the final jewelry. You have to understand the rules of the game perfectly so that you know what you can afford to violate.